It's getting rather chilly here already, and it's only the beginning of November. Autumn is the shortest season in the Sakha Republic -- it basically lasts for not quite two months. The month of September is the time for preparation; it's called 'balaghan yayn' in Sakha, & it means 'the month of moving into the balaghan, or winter house'. The middle of October, or 'Altynyy', the sixth month (because the year begins in spring!) is when winter officially begins. The 14th, precisely, is what everyone tells me, and it's true -- by this day, the lakes have frozen over and people begin icefishing for carp. Ceremonies are traditionally held for the spirits of the water, and Baianaj, the forest guardian, wherein hunters promise to never take more than their share, & to respect what is provided to them. November is 'Setinn'y', the seventh month, December 'Akhsynn'y', the eighth, and January 'Tokhsunn'u', the ninth, and February 'Olunn'u', the tenth. All the other months have descriptive names, but the winter months are simply numbered because not very much happens then; they remain in a cold sort of stasis. In March, however, horses, cows and reindeer have their young, so it is called 'Kulun tutar', the month of nursing foals.
So yes, it's the beginning of Setinn'y, and the temperature is dropping. It's been around -20C in the afternoons and around -30 (with windchill) overnight, so a bit chilly indeed. Apparently by the middle to end of the month, we'll be reaching -40 regularly, where the temperature shall remain for the month of December, and most of the January, when it will likely get much frostier too. -50 to -55C within the city, and colder in the villages is likely; many of the herders, as well as a local shaman in the city, have predicted an especially harsh winter.
& these are my traditional reindeer boots, called 'unty' (an Evenki word, actually -- the Sakha originally came from a bit further south, and adopted many elements of Evenki clothing when they arrived up here) they are felt and flannel-lined, with heavy block-felt soles that feel a little like hooves when I walk... People here prefer them over Sorel-type boots or the Alaskan rubber bunny boots, as they are incredibly cozy and warm (too warm for -20, even!) & less cumbersome to walk in. I feel very privileged to have some; I am very thankful to the reindeer whose coat I wear around my legs & the sable whose fur is warming my ears.
The tops of unty are decorated with gorgeous, intricately embroidered tops called bileder. You can buy the bileder separately, as well, to attach to the tops of any pair of boots; you may be receiving some for Christmas from me...
And finally, these are my mittens. They are felt & silk lined, & I can add a layer of wool mitten if I need extra warmth. But really, you know why I bought them. They are hand-embroidered with titmice (and green snow-covered boughs & little white snowflakes!) on them!!!! Called sinitsya (Russian) and chyyp-chyyp-chaakh (Sakha) they are, as you likely have guessed, a relative of the chickadee, & I am in love with them.
So yes, it's the beginning of Setinn'y, and the temperature is dropping. It's been around -20C in the afternoons and around -30 (with windchill) overnight, so a bit chilly indeed. Apparently by the middle to end of the month, we'll be reaching -40 regularly, where the temperature shall remain for the month of December, and most of the January, when it will likely get much frostier too. -50 to -55C within the city, and colder in the villages is likely; many of the herders, as well as a local shaman in the city, have predicted an especially harsh winter. Now, apparently, despite my attempts to reassure friends here that I am indeed prepared for winter with my nice warm coats and mittens, etc., they were appalled & concerned by my woolen hats. According to them, wool, even double-layered & inside a hood, simply will not do! I absolutely must have a fur hat. The sinus-cold I have right now is evidently due to my furless head, I was told. So, today I was taken to Sakhabult, a lovely shop downtown where all sorts of handmade furry things are handcrafted all from local materials supplied by hunters in nearby villages. As you can see above, I now have a proper Siberian sable hat, that will protect me from the upcoming cold.
& these are my traditional reindeer boots, called 'unty' (an Evenki word, actually -- the Sakha originally came from a bit further south, and adopted many elements of Evenki clothing when they arrived up here) they are felt and flannel-lined, with heavy block-felt soles that feel a little like hooves when I walk... People here prefer them over Sorel-type boots or the Alaskan rubber bunny boots, as they are incredibly cozy and warm (too warm for -20, even!) & less cumbersome to walk in. I feel very privileged to have some; I am very thankful to the reindeer whose coat I wear around my legs & the sable whose fur is warming my ears.
The tops of unty are decorated with gorgeous, intricately embroidered tops called bileder. You can buy the bileder separately, as well, to attach to the tops of any pair of boots; you may be receiving some for Christmas from me... 
And finally, these are my mittens. They are felt & silk lined, & I can add a layer of wool mitten if I need extra warmth. But really, you know why I bought them. They are hand-embroidered with titmice (and green snow-covered boughs & little white snowflakes!) on them!!!! Called sinitsya (Russian) and chyyp-chyyp-chaakh (Sakha) they are, as you likely have guessed, a relative of the chickadee, & I am in love with them. 
Eeep! Eeep! So very very lovely, all of it....
ВідповістиВидалитиdo you want a furry hat or felty/furry mittens? or bileder, the boot tops? let me know.
ВідповістиВидалитиthose are fabulous fuzzy pom-poms, and beautiful boots and mittens. love!
ВідповістиВидалитиthank you! i am rather fond of my cozy accessories. & i have since acquired another hat from a friend that was concerned that even this one would not be warm enough for me (they're predicting an extra cold winter this year, both the meteorologists & the shamans!)
ВідповістиВидалитиthis other hat is a different shape, & much much pouffier. i will take a photo.
oh my gosh. what lovely stuff to get you through the winter!! and the artistry on the boot-toppers and mittens is incredible.
ВідповістиВидалитиthanks! i am in awe of the beadwork (i learned to do a little while i was in the yukon, but all i can do are simple round flowers!), & the embroidery, too -- it's like a painting in thread.
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